For Winter 2026, Anthony Vaccarello returns to the essence of Saint Laurent—precision tailoring, strong silhouettes, and the quiet confidence that has long defined the house.
The collection focuses on structure and construction, stripping away nostalgia to reveal clothing shaped by clarity and intention. Vaccarello approaches the Saint Laurent wardrobe almost architecturally, building garments that feel both timeless and distinctly modern.
Tailoring leads the collection. A series of sharply cut single- and double-breasted black suits opens the show, subtly referencing the severity of late-1970s and early-1980s Saint Laurent while remaining firmly rooted in the present. Strong shoulders taper into softly defined waists, creating a silhouette that balances strength and ease. Rather than projecting overt power, these suits convey a quieter form of confidence—one that blurs the boundaries between masculine and feminine codes.
The iconic Le Smoking tuxedo also returns with renewed emphasis. Vaccarello reinterprets the house signature with a relaxed, almost effortless attitude, shifting the focus from theatrical glamour to a more understated form of evening elegance.
Cinematic storytelling continues to shape Vaccarello’s vision for Saint Laurent. This season, the designer drew inspiration from the actress Romy Schneider, particularly her role in the 1971 film Max et les Ferrailleurs, where elegance and melancholy coexist. Literary influences also informed the collection, including the emotional complexity of Tennessee Williams’ The Roman Spring of Mrs. Stone and the bold social questioning found in Gore Vidal’s The City and the Pillar.
These references translate into a mood that moves between restraint and vulnerability. Vaccarello explores intimacy through contrasting materials and silhouettes, allowing structure and softness to interact throughout the collection.
For evening, sheer lace treated with silicone creates an unexpected effect: delicate fabric holds a sculptural form reminiscent of tailoring. At the same time, traditional suiting becomes more fluid and relaxed. The contrast reverses familiar fashion codes—fragility appears powerful, while structure takes on a more sensual character.
Outerwear also plays an important role. Oversized shearling coats, softly draped and belted at the hip, introduce warmth and comfort to the collection’s sharp tailoring. While black remains central to the palette, other pieces appear in rich, painterly tones such as burnt sienna, teal, French blue, and deep brown. Sculptural gold dove jewelry adds a final graphic accent.
The cinematic mood extends to the runway setting itself. Vaccarello staged the show inside a modernist residence constructed of glass, wood, and leather, evoking an intimate private space rather than a traditional runway environment. At its center stood an oversized replica of a bust once displayed in Yves Saint Laurent’s own apartment, while the Eiffel Tower glowed through the glass walls behind it—a reminder that Saint Laurent’s heart remains firmly rooted in Paris.
